Squeezed into a corner of the Burg, the mediaeval square which is the historic heart of Bruges, is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, two chapels, one above the other. The rather gloomy lower chapel was built in the mid 12th century as the private chapel for the residence of the Count of Flanders. The upper chapel is a later addition, much brighter and more splendid, for it is here that the Holy Blood is displayed.

Legend has it that this blood, contained in a small phial of rock crystal, was collected by Joseph of Arimathea when he washed the body of Christ, and was brought back by a Count of Flanders from the Crusades. Some say it arrived in Bruges in 1150, others that it probably came later, from Constantinople after the Fourth Crusade. It was certainly there by 1310 when Pope Clement V granted indulgences to pilgrims who came to view it.

It was claimed that the blood appeared to be dry when it first arrived in Bruges, but suddenly miraculously became liquid again and this was said to be repeated every Friday.

Although there have been no reports since 1325 of the blood liquifying, it continues to be venerated. The Ascension Day Procession of the Holy Blood is one of the great religious celebrations in Belgium. It dates from 1303 and commemorates the deliverance of the city from the French. At this time, as also on Fridays, the phial of blood is taken from the museum where it is usually kept to the Chapel of the Holy Blood, where worshippers have the opportunity to touch this relic.

A few years ago I visited Bruges with a friend at the beginning of Holy Week. We had heard the legend, were in the Burg, and decided to visit the little museum. To our surprise we found that although it wasn’t Friday, the Holy Blood was in the chapel and there would be a short service during which we could process up to touch the phial. There was a large congregation of tourists and I am sure they were not all believers, but most went up to see, to wonder, and to receive a blessing and appeared to be moved by the experience. Whatever one may believe about the contents of the phial, the faith and devotion it has inspired over the centuries have given it its own significance, and I am so glad I had the opportunity to share that.